So as promised better late than never.. PART 2
A week after the TDF left Rotterdam we started our own journey towards France, but instead of cycling for hours we decided travelling by car would be a better option, although it was 31 degrees even at night, the closer we got towards France the warmer it seemed to get (not really a surprise travelling South and all that)
We set out on the Friday evening, car packed with tent, cooking utensils, sleeping bags and everything we would need for a night up in the French Alps with no public amenities or camp sites (or so we thought)
Starting out from Holland we drove to Nancy in France, which is a little over and hour drive from Luxembourg. We discovered a VERY cheap self service hotel called B&B great bargain at 35 euros for the night! Just what you need when you are on the road and only need a bed for the night, in our case we were only needing 6 hours sleep or so.
Setting off early the following morning on the second leg of our journey to Avoriaz, the temperatures started souring early reaching 36 degrees by 10am! With no air con we soon acclimatised with intervals of winding windows down on the motorway (who need air con eh?)
Just passing by Geneve’ in Switzerland we stopped near the boarder and the much anticipated and beloved Buffalo Grill, this is a magnificent French chain of roadside restaurants themed on Buffalo Bill. Great value for money and the service can’t be faulted, they do the tastiest steaks and the best spare ribs I have ever!!! (if only I lived nearer to France!)
OK back on topic…as my stomach grumbles and aches for some Buffalo Grill!!
So finally we arrive in Avoriaz after travelling kilometres of long windy roads to the top of the snow less ski resort which was now basking in 30 degree plus sunshine…….BUT not for long! no sooner had we arrived the black clouds loomed overhead and a hail storm started pelting down on us, I’m not talking your average hail storm here, I’m talking about Styrofoam ball type stuff! It was pelting down with such force we could almost hear the metal roof of the car being dented with every little bullet hitting it.
At this point the temperature had plummeted from 26 degrees to 3 degrees!! all in the space of 5 minutes! Freaky weather! After about 20-30 mins of being fired at, we started to believe that this was a sign we should never have ventured up this mountain! I’ve never been a big fan of ski resorts but I thought I’d be safe from ice and cold in the middle of summer! I was wrong.
Whilst all this was taking place we were sitting in our car stuck on a mud/ice slope… Reason?… read on…
At this point parking spaces were few and far between, we parked up in the nearest spot just to be on the safe side until the storm passed, some “nice friendly” (not) Belgium people with a camper van thought they somehow owned rights to the mountain actually ventured out into the storm to tell us to move our car because we were in “their” spot… yes apparently so. If hail hadn’t been pelting down so hard I would have got out of the car and this blog would be taking a completely different direction right now, a camper van with flat tyres would have been the theme of the next paragraph…perhaps even prison cells might have been mentioned in there too! It was their lucky day I tell you!
Much against my protesting my very obedient boyfriend kindly moved our offending car with much urgency in the middle of the storm down a dirt track/mini mountain edge to keep King and Queen camper van happy…therefore even if we wanted to go anywhere, we couldn’t! We were well and truly stranded. Talk about that saying “If someone told you to jump off a mountain…” I’ll say no more!
Soon we encountered our first Dutch man (they’re everywhere, try going anywhere you’ll soon find a Dutchman) who came to offer help/advice and his advice was that we pitch our tent up there next to him as we weren’t going anywhere until the storm had passed and the mud was dry. He was a jolly friendly old chappy from Breda who had arrived the previous night and was making a mini holiday out of his venture up the mountain.
The aftermath:
So we pitched our tent up at the side of the mountain next to our newly found Dutch companion.
Soon after we discovered that the hailstones were a blessing in disguise as all the water, wine and beer we had in the car had been basking in 30 degree heat all day so we collected all the hailstones around the tent into a container in proper Bear Grylls survival style!
Soon the temperature went back up into the 20’s with slight drizzle now and then. We ventured up the mountain road past the hundreds if not thousands of camper vans and caravans lined up the road leading towards the finish line.
(UPDATE! we notice at this point the parking space which King and Queen campervan didn’t want us to use next to their precious van was taken by some Italians who probably didn’t understand Dutch/Flemish, and you know what the average Italian is like they don’t take shit lightly)
During the summer months the ski resort is mainly populated by mountain bikers and hardcore racing cyclists who love the challenge of the steep mountain roads.
Having never been to a ski resort before (I’m not a fan of the cold and the whole snooty ski fashion wear) it was quite interesting to see it without snow I found myself trying to imagine what it would look like during the winter? way more picturesque in my opinion.
Although there were many people visiting for the Tour De France most of the resort hotels and accomodation were eerily quiet and it felt as though the dark wooden buildings were depressed without their much loved and trusted snowy companion.
This is how it looked when we were visiting, note the one building decked out in Tour De France red polka dot material.
So after dining, visiting a few bars and exploring the village we ventured back a few kilometres down the mountain back to our tent ready for a good nights sleep… After I had grown used to the English and German drunk escapades till the early hours I must say I didn’t sleep too bad :O)
Overnight the tour vans had ventured up the mountains and all the HGV’s carrying all the broadcast equipment had arrived, those poor people in camper vans must have had a terrible nights sleep with lorries, trucks going past and technical people building up around their vans.
The view from our camping spot in the morning was glorious! We had also gained lots more tent campers overnight and the party atmosphere and excitement was brewing in the air.
Now there were some pretty amazing sights to be seen in the morning, one of which was this guy in his underpants doing his morning exercises. Let me just say, be glad the picture was taken from behind, as the front view was well….lets just say…. a heavy sack of swinging spuds in an old bag sprung to mind…if you get my drift? too graphic? sorry! Plus the poor guy seemed to be a different colour from the front, bless him, he was fake tan orange…I think he forgot to apply the fake tan to the other side of his body haha.
Lots of day trippers were starting to arrive in coaches, many companies were offering day trips to the resort for the Tour de France, many of these people were gathering at the finish line hours before to get a good view of the cyclists coming in. I bet there were a few piles going round after these people had sat in the same spot for hours on end.
It was amazing to see how quickly the crew built everything up from the crowd barriers and broadcast units to laying the advertisements at the finish line. It really makes you realise how hard the organisers and crew have to work in order to set everything up within a short space of time, then take everything down and move on to the next finish line for the following stage. I take my hat off to those guys as it must be seriously hard work.
Massive HGV’s were carrying all the broadcast equipment and unbelievably giant screens were broadcasting the whole stage for the crowds to watch.
All in all the whole event was really well organised for a mountain stage, usually during mountain stages there are no toilets or amenities, once you are there you are out in the wilderness with lots of other people there for the same reason, but the local council/government won’t be making sure there are toilets for you to use or police ensuring your safety. You are pretty much on your own out there roughing it and your nearest toilet is the most secluded bush you manage to find. So we were really spoilt in that respect, we even had a little supermarket open in the resort area. Good for them! all those people in a ski resort in the middle of summer doesn’t happen very often so they might as well make as much money out of it as they can and attract as many visitors over that short weekend.
The landscape was truly amazing, photos just don’t do it justice.
Spectators were all in their places, the mountain road was closed off to any further visitors and unregistered vehicles, a few hours before the cyclists were due to arrive and the commercial wagons were commencing their tour pretty much the same as when the tour took off from Rotterdam. The excitement was building and we took our spots outside the residence of King and Queen camper van (not intentionally, but that’s just where we ended up coincidently, no conversation was exchanged and I behaved myself ;O) haha
I can’t even imagine what type of pain these guys go through to get up the mountains, seeing the cyclists close up you can almost feel their pain as they struggle after cycling miles I wonder how they feel when finally the finish line is in sight!
So after all the excitment we made some soup on our camping cooker and Sjoerd in proper Dutch style was all kitted out ready for the World Cup final in which Holland were playing against Spain!! So everything had to be orange including the food!
At this point people were already leaving, TDF cyclists were cycling back down the mountain to their tour buses and the tech people were breaking everything down, no sooner had we had soup and walked back up towards the finish line the whole place was almost desolate again!?!? It was a very strange thing to experience, in some respects it was almost like a dream, as if the TDF had never taken place, only a few HGV’s still parked up without drivers and a giant screen in am empty car park with perhaps eight people and ourselves waiting in anticipation for the world cup to start. Ermm but we waited a long time as the French Sports Broadcaster couldn’t pick up a signal for the world cup.
So we waited patiently for the techies to sort out the problem but figured it would be better to venture into the resort village and see if there was a pub showing the world cup and yes there was! and that is where most of the people especially the Dutchies had ran off to. The pubs were so packed out we watched from outside the window, we quickly got bored by half time and were weighing up our options of what would be the best and safest course of action for the return journey back through France.
Darkness was looming and our car was still stuck in the same place at the edge of the steep drop, we thought it would be best if we were going to have problems driving out of the mountains that we have problems while there was still a bit of daylight rather than having to be tugged out of the mud in pitch darkness. So we walked back to the car and drove out no problem..very lucky!!
So off we drove back down the windy roads with all the giant techie lorries infront and behind us, this was great fun as everyone was beeping joyously at each other (in France if you see a TDF vehicle you have to sound your horn) so there was a great party spirit on our decent. With the world cup commentary on French radio, in French naturally, we were continuously listening very carefully for any indication that Holland might have scored, all we understood was the commentator saying Zero Zero every 30 seconds just to keep non Frenchies like ourselves in the loop I reckon ;O) We came across random Dutchies at the side of the road (as you do in France) and asked them for an update, no luck…Holland were not scoring. It is also no surprise to announce that Holland did in fact NOT win the world cup.
And on that bombshell we trekked back up through France back home to Holland.
Hope you enjoyed the read :O)